Agra

Some really fun interactions with Agra locals helped us to shake off our weariness at the scammers and touts. In fact, we think that Indian people might be the most enthusiastically friendly people we’ve met yet!

Our train tickets from Varanasi to Agra were on “Sleeper Class”, which is the class most Indians use to get around. We slept on the highest of three levels of bunks, nestled in just below the ceiling. We were also sharing the carriage with a number of mice, who occasionally darted across the floor. But this was more than made up for by the super-friendly people we shared the train with - we chatted away throughout the evening.

Once in Agra we took a walk down a random street and ended up in the middle of a small neighbourhood. Everyone seemed very bemused at us being there, especially the kids who started following us down the street in a big pack, asking us questions. We said hundreds of “hellos” and a young boy even asked us to sign our autographs on his hand! If you dream of fame, just come to India and wander off the tourist trail - the feeling of instant celebrity is quite bizarre.

Of course tourists come to Agra for one thing - the Taj Mahal. The famous mausoleum is as spectacular as they say, and definitely worth a visit. With a couple of days in the city we also got to see Agra Fort (which we found only OK) and the tomb of I’timād-ud-Daulah, nicknamed the Baby Taj (we were two of just a handful of people there which was nice).

Agra Fort

Baby Taj

The Taj Mahal

From chatting to people, we had heard a lot about corruption in India by this point, but didn’t know we were going to experience it first hand. We were at the train station to buy some tickets, so we went to the official ticket window for foreign tourists. After we handed over the money, the cashier printed out the ticket, and then distracted us by giving us another form to fill out. While we were looking away, he exchanged one of our notes for a smaller one. When we gave the form back, he told us we hadn’t paid enough and made us hand over some more money. So an official cashier of Indian Railways stole 400 rupees from us (luckily only about NZ$10). A pretty brazen thing to do that would be unthinkable back home!

We boarded a train (using our premium price tickets) and left Agra, bound for Udaipur. Udiapur is the city of lakes, and said to be the most romantic city in India.

Written by Craig Drayton and Sally Robertson